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Food Whisperer: At J’s Restaurant, fine dining in an idyllic setting, close to home

A patio table for two on a pleasant June evening was the perfect setting for an anniversary dinner. We were at J’s Restaurant, part of Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton, for the first time in a long time and with much anticipation as the dinners we had enjoyed on our previous visits were excellent.

We had made an early reservation, 5:30 p.m., in the hope of getting an outdoor table, weather permitting. That strategy worked out beautifully as we were the first seated on the patio. We had the place to ourselves but only for a short while; by the time we left, the patio was full. J’s takes an interesting approach to outdoor seating. They take reservations only for indoor seating; outdoor seating, offered on a first-come, first-served basis, can be requested on arrival. However, your indoor table remains available to you if you wish to finish your meal inside for any reason.

Since we were celebrating, we were eager for a cocktail. Turns out that all the cocktails on offer are made from ingredients crafted or farmed on site—from the liquor to other ingredients such as honey. While we have become fond of Aperol spritzers in the summer, those were not on offer, so we went instead with a lemon lavender martini, which was a delightful mix of Nashoba’s Perfect 10 gin, lavender honey syrup, lemon juice, and lemon bitters, garnished with a small lavender sprig.

To start, we skipped the salad (though the two on the menu looked great, with fig pomegranate and Cara Cara orange) and went right for the decadent cranberry pecan baked brie. A generous portion was served on a farm-to-table style board with plentiful baguette toasts. It looked too much for us to finish … we did though, enjoying every bit of the creamy warm brie covered with fig jam, honey, pecan crumble, and dried cranberries. I might have enjoyed the pecans chopped less finely so they could have added a crunchy counterpoint; to me they were somewhat lost, but it feels such a nitpick, given how delicious the starter was.

Main courses

For our main course, my husband went for the lamb, which was, surprisingly, served in a bowl. The lamb was served with saffron turmeric rice, hummus, and a pita. Both the hummus and pita were house-made. A cucumber and tomato salad, along with a tzatziki sauce and smoked feta, completed the bowl. A bit of everything could be piled into a piece of the pita or eaten separately. My husband did a bit of both, loving the different flavor combinations he could create.

I went for the grilled coulotte steak, a tender, well-marbled, boneless loin cut that I don’t recall seeing on many menus. The dish was attractively served on a narrow tray-like plate: the steak, sliced thickly with a drizzle of tangy Italian salsa verde on the left; a mix of grilled summer squashes and red bell pepper in the center; a scoop of creamy tomato orzo on the right. Everything was well cooked and very flavorful. We are big orzo fans, and this one hit the right combination of creaminess, flavor, and “bite.”

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Other interesting entrees on the menu included pork belly and jagerschnitzel. Also featured were two seafood options, vegan tempura, and a grilled half chicken.

We couldn’t manage any of the four dessert options, though they looked wonderful. It was such a lovely relaxed atmosphere that we ordered tea to linger and soak it all in. The tea presentation was fun—tea brewing in a small pot, along with a small wooden frame holding three small hourglasses. Each timer went at a different pace, completion of which indicated a light, medium, or strong brew of the tea. Clever!

For those desiring a more intimate dining experience, J’s offers private dining for up to four guests on the second floor of the restaurant or on the separate front patio with a three-course, set-price meal. Only one private dining experience is available each evening starting at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday.

Nashoba Valley Winery (which is now actually a winery, distillery, brewery, and cidery) also offers a more casual dining option with its outdoor venue, Vintner’s Knoll, with selections such as charcuterie boards, sandwiches, flatbreads, hot dogs, fries, salads, and wraps. In the summer, “food truck Fridays” expands the food offerings for the evening.

The complex has been run—and expanded—by the Pelletier family since 1995. They purchased the winery from founder Jack Partridge. Among other things, the Pelletiers are active members of the community, supporting events such as the annual fundraising event for Harvard’s Virginia Thurston Healing Garden.

According to its website, J’s has consistently received accolades since opening, including recognition from Zagat, Yankee magazine, the Boston Globe, and others. We are happy to add our own accolades: Our anniversary meal definitely lived up to our memories and expectations. Delicious and creative choices, well prepared with excellent service in an idyllic setting. We should really visit more often!

Alice Bartram leaves much of the cooking to her husband, though she has many Instagram-saved recipes that she’ll get to one day as, really, she finds eating out more fun than cooking.

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