Of all my culinary journeys over my lifetime, some of my favorites have been down South. In 2008 during my four-year stint at Auburn University in Auburn, Alabama, a good friend’s Meemaw introduced me to home-cooked Southern biscuits, a life changing experience. Fast-forward to January 2020 on a weekend trip to Price’s Chicken Coop in Charlotte, a legendary fried chicken joint that was nothing more than a room of fryers, one chalkboard with the menu of the day, and a bunch of old-timers prepared to yell at you if you took too long to order. Why do I bring up these two experiences that are nowhere near Massachusetts? Simple. My bar has been set high when it comes to biscuits and fried chicken, so when Nan’s Kitchen opened their third location in Westford a few weeks ago, I was eager to see what the hype was all about.
Since moving to Harvard I’ve heard good things about the Nan’s Kitchen locations in Southborough and Stow, but I never made the trip to either, so the bright red facade of their new Westford location had me chomping at the bit. I think everyone is aware of Nan’s fried chicken, but it was the rest of the menu that was really intriguing. Bowls with grains, greens, and your choice of protein, soups, salads, and a variety of teas and smoothies. Even the sides all looked great, while adding a bit of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flair with offerings like falafel and flavorings like sumac, cumin, and turmeric. For a first-time tasting it was overwhelming, so I stuck mostly with the basics and my personal favorites to get a good barometer reading.
Let’s start with the king of the menu: the fried chicken. I went with the classic original fried tenders (there are three options to choose from) and a hot honey fried chicken sandwich. The tenders were fantastic, large pieces that were lightly breaded and fried, still packing a nice crunch and that salty herb finish I like. The sandwich was again a large, nicely fried piece of chicken in a toasted buttery bun and lots of flavor from the hot honey and smoky mayo. Next time I get this sandwich I’ll be asking for light on the mayo or omitting it all together. There was too much mayo for my personal liking, which I felt took away from the hot honey and the bun. I also had to sample one of the bowls and ended up ordering the herb-brined chicken with quinoa, sweet potatoes, and Brussels sprouts. The chicken was juicy and flavorful, and all of the accoutrements in the bowl were savory and fresh. The star of the bowl was the portion size—heaps of chicken, and sides that really made it feel like a hearty meal.
The biggest surprise of my visit was the biscuits. In my humble opinion if you’re serving biscuits at a fried chicken place, they better be on point. I was very happy with the three biscuits in my white takeout box—they did not last the day. They’re also a little different from what I’m used to. They have the nice layers that indicate a non-overworked dough, buttery, and a hint of sweetness. But what’s different is the outside has a bit of a chew to it and large rocks of sea salt, which I really enjoyed. Are they better than Meemaws’? No, but they are some of the best I’ve had in New England. I will be ordering more of these next time I go, so I can have them with my chicken and leftovers for the next morning with breakfast.
All in all I was very happy with my first experience at Nan’s Kitchen. We had our meal a week after they opened and there were no mistakes, excessive waits, or glitches, which is hard to say for any new restaurant still working out the kinks. You can order online or dine in their country-kitchenesque dining room, complete with hanging lanterns, chicken wallpaper, and paintings of horrified vegetables being turned into food. I realize this sounds like a Cracker Barrel gone wrong, but it’s a fun and cozy environment where every diner should feel welcome, including those with children.
If you’re looking for something to fill your Chick-fil-A craving, a new takeout spot, or just something a little different, I would highly recommend Nan’s Kitchen in Westford. Everyone deserves a warm biscuit in their tummy, especially in the February and March doldrums.
Greg Schneider is a dedicated home cook, a former bartender, and a devoted patron of area restaurants. He currently blogs about local breweries at The Hotter Upper.
