For those of you who are gearing up for the 2024 Red Sox season, I have good news and bad news. Let’s start with the bad news: Regardless of astronomically high ticket, beer, and food prices, it looks like the Sox still didn’t want to open the piggy bank to make any meaningful additions in the offseason, and we might be lacking in the “wins” department again this year. The good news, especially for craft beer junkies like me, is there’s finally a solid brewery and taproom option in the Fenway neighborhood.
I think it’s more than fair to say the food and beverage scene in and around Fenway Park has made drastic improvements over the last 10 years. Additions like Loretta’s Last Call and Max and Leo’s on Lansdowne Street, Time Out Market on Park Drive, and even Fenway Johnnies on Brookline Avenue have all added some life and variety to the area. Even with all of that, I have always been disappointed with the lack of a solid craft brewery option. Time Out Market has great beers on tap, and there is the Trillium Beer Garden next to it, but there’s no real taproom. And, no disrespect to them, but Boston Beer Works and Cheeky Monkey Brewing just don’t live up to the current craft beer standards in Massachusetts. However, as of March 14, the clouds have finally parted, and Mighty Squirrel Brewing Company has opened their much anticipated taproom on David Ortiz Drive.
Mighty Squirrel holds a special place in my heart when it comes to craft beer. Their Cloud Candy New England IPA is the beer that got me hooked on juicy IPAs. Their original taproom in Waltham is vibrant, welcoming, and always touts a large variety of adult treats on tap to try. But almost just as important, they have not strayed from their roots of two guys who started brewing beer because they loved it and wanted to share it with others. So with all that being said, I was obviously delighted to hear of their new Fenway venture.
The taproom is located in the new development nestled next to the Lansdowne commuter rail station and the Mass. Pike, adjacent to the David Ortiz bridge. The space is two floors of large windows, vibrant colors, and plenty of seating options, sticking true to the original Waltham location brand. The first floor has a large horseshoe bar along with classic family-style brewery tables, plenty of TVs to watch the game, a small stage for live music, and a full kitchen. Upstairs has two smaller bars, along with more intimate sit-down table options, including individual seats on the railing that overlook the first floor. The Mighty Squirrel team did a phenomenal job with the setting, a comfortable space to accommodate almost any atmosphere preference.
I was lucky enough to be invited to the soft opening on March 13, the night before their grand opening. For those not familiar with the term, a soft opening is a standard practice in the industry when a restaurant, bar, or event space will host friends, family, and local reviewers before its grand opening as a sort of “dry run” and to also get some hype flowing. I mention this because it’s an opportunity to work out some of the kinks, and that seems to be what was happening in the kitchen. The menu is primarily small bites, pizzas, and tacos. The small bites I sampled were up to par, but the pizza was undercooked, and one of our tacos was lacking in the flavor department. I expect these stumbles to be worked out, and I would like to try the food again before I give it a fair critique.
All in all, this new spot is a must-try for any craft beer fan, Sox fan, or general foodie. Great beer with a great atmosphere is hard to beat, even if our beloved Red Sox do struggle on the field this year.
Greg Schneider is a dedicated home cook, former bartender, and a devoted patron of area restaurants. He currently blogs about local breweries at The Hotter Upper.
