A couple of weeks ago on our way up to New Hampshire, my wife and I found ourselves hastily pulling into Mill Run Plaza off Route 111 in Groton for an emergency diaper change for our son. After making quick work of the situation on the tailgate of our car and now looking for the nearest trash can, my eyes fell on the sign for Dolce Amar bakery. After a couple minutes of reconnaissance, there was no denying that there was a steady flow of patrons, which immediately struck me as impressive, given it was 10:30 a.m. on a Wednesday.
Three days later I was back in the same parking spot with my son (no emergency diaper change required this time, luckily) and ready to see what the place was all about.
Dolce Amar is the passion of Raffaella Gutermann, a self-taught baker from Sicily. As soon as you walk into the small but inviting space, you know you’ve entered the sphere of someone who is not going to disappoint your sweet tooth. The glass cases wrapping around the counter are impressively filled with everything from cupcakes and cakes to prepared foods and pastries. It’s honestly overwhelming and a bit intimidating if you’re not confident in your target order before arriving.
When trying any new establishment with a large menu, my wife and I have a tried-and-true strategy: Order classic or traditional offerings, because if they can’t get that right, chances are the rest will follow suit. So with that in mind, I went with a chocolate chip cookie, a croissant, a cannoli, and a slice of chocolate cheesecake. They also have an impressive lineup of coffee creations, including some seasonal concoctions like The Great Pumpkin, or the beautifully foamed latte I saw a customer enjoying at a table next to me.
Once I was home with my bag of goodies and free to stuff my face in private, the tastings began. The chocolate chip cookie beamed of Toll House goodness, with a minimal crispy texture. I know there is an ongoing debate among the cookie fiends out there on the proper bake time and consistency for a Toll House, and these are definitely on the softer side, which I happen to prefer. The croissant was full of flaky and tasty buttery layers that I would expect from any respectable croissant.
Fresh cannoli and A-list chocolate cheesecake
Next up were the two desserts I was looking forward to the most, the cannoli and the chocolate cheesecake. Quick note when ordering your cannolis at Dolce Amar—don’t panic when you don’t see them in the case. This is a good thing: Each cannoli is filled to order in the back. The first thing I noticed about the cannoli was the color of the shell, a much darker bake than what you would see at a Mike’s or Modern in Boston. Color aside, it had the same fresh crunch wrapped around the creamy ricotta filling. I’ve had plenty of cannolis in my day, and I was surprised at how this filling was less sweet compared to the aforementioned Boston spots. At first I questioned it, but it grew on me, especially with the chocolate chips I had ordered for mine, which added some extra sweetness. I will definitely be grabbing more of these in the future and thoroughly exploring the other toppings (watch out, pistachio, I’m coming for you).
The rock star of the day was undoubtedly the chocolate cheesecake. Holy moly, even if you’re not a big cheesecake fan, you have to try this one. This version has chocolate swirls throughout, topped with a chocolate frosting and whipped cream, and finished with a crispy chocolate crumble. It was decadent, but not heavy. Sweet, but not overpowering. Even the graham cracker crust foundation was perfectly buttery and soft but held fast with every swipe of the fork. I took two bites and immediately put it in the fridge for later that evening because it deserved to be paired with a nice glass of scotch after dinner. I don’t know what kind of Sicilian fairy dust Raffaella puts in her cheesecake, but whatever it is, I’m going back just for that.
If you’re looking for a quality, authentic European-style bakery, look no further than Dolce Amar. Not only can you stop by for your coffee and treat of choice, but they also make custom cakes for any occasion and have plenty of options for your next party or gathering. They also have an impressive lineup of seasonal treats and limited offerings like doughnut Saturdays. I highly suggest you follow their Instagram account for the latest offerings, but be careful because it will make you salivate in the process.
Greg Schneider is a dedicated home cook, former bartender, and a devoted patron of area restaurants. He currently blogs about local breweries at The Hotter Upper.
